Tall white toques are gone. The white coats areslowly disappearing, too.The restaurant professionals who cook our food no longer adhere to a one-size-fits-alllook.Like the anti-cookie-cutter food they whip up, they want their appearanceto be different too.
Ergotattoos — on arms, legs, hands, feet, necks and, yes, even faces.
And why not.In a hot sweaty, nerve-wrackingkitchen, looking bad-ass is hardly a liability. It's almost a requirement.
Besides, chefs see themselves as outsiders, as "misfits." Andkitchens, they'll tell you, aremore acceptable than most workplaces.
"We give people more opportunities, without judging how they look or what their pasts are," said chef-owner Leia Gaccione of South + Pine in Morristown and Central + Main in Madison.
Here, North Jersey chefs telltheir own tattoo stories (and why they couldn't care less about tattoos andsagging skin nomatter how many times they hear it from mom and dad).
David Finkelstein, a New England Culinary Institute graduate, serves pit-smoked BBQ meats and Southern dishes using local wood in his two big BBQ restaurants with full bars and desserts. Onemust-get item: corn souffle.
"I got my first tattoo in my early 20s.Tattoos seem like an interesting way to express yourself. It's on my right bicep and it's a green sphere with the face of agreen guy sticking out its tongue. It's goofy, a beginner's tattoo.
When I knew for sure that I would be in the BBQ biz, about 10 years ago, I got a butcher's cut chart of a pig on my forearm. It relates to what I do. The guests in the restaurants love it. I put my arm out and say, 'Here are where the spare ribs come from.'
Iuse it for training the staff, too. It's professionally useful.
I've always thought about karma. I think about all the processing of all the meat I do, the fact that animals are sacrificing their lives for us. I've always said that you should be able to look your dinner in the eyes. So a couple of years ago, Igot a tattoo of myself being cooked by the animals. I'm on a spit and the pig is sharpening a knife and the cow is poking me with a trident BBQ fork.I'm expanding on it. I will get ducks, turkeys, chickens — the animals I cook.
I don't take much of anything seriously, except the food I'm cooking.
It's cliche but tattoos are prevalent in the kitchen because chefs, cooks generally don't fit in. It's the reason I like to cook. I have a natural inclination to be anti-social. By default, if you're a cook, you're an outsider. You're in the kitchen all day while everyone else is partying outside.
Also you can get hired with tattoos, but not if you're in a corporate setting. If you're in a cafeteria on Wall Street, you don't have full sleeves on your arms. Also, cooking is painful, youcut yourself, burn yourself, your knees hurt, your back hurts. Going to get a tattoo is like going to work."
Drummer-turned-chef Andrew Riccatelli practices the same whimsical approach to food preparation as executive director David Burke at Ventanas, a modern American Cuban/Asianrestaurant, serving such out-of -the-box dishes as tuna tartar tacos, clothesline bacon and cheesecake pops. A must get: lobster dumplings.
"I got my first tattoo on my prom weekend in Wildwood. It's a couple of lines on my forearm. I paid boardwalk prices for not a good tattoo.I thoughtit was really cool.
I now have tattoos on my arms, my hands, my back, my chest. On my chest it's ananatomical heart with wings on it and it says, 'We live in hearts we leave behind.'
I have a dumpling tattooon my right bicep. I got it after winning "Chopped," March 2017.I have theMorton salt girl next to the dumpling. And, no, of course I don't use table salt.
My throat tattoo — a hamsa withwings coming out of it — really, really hurt. It'sgood that I only have one throat to get tattooed because I wouldnever do it again.
My fiancée worries I'll get too many. She asked, 'What's it going to look like when you're a grandpa — a64-year-oldwith a throat tattoo?'
'That's awesome,' I said.She thought it would deter me. It did the opposite.'"
Passaic-native and former chef de cuisine for celebrity chef Bobby Flay, Leia Gaccione cooks down-home American food using seasonal ingredients at her unpretentious inviting BYOB restaurants. Highly recommended: spicy lamb meatballs, award-winning burger and polenta fries.
"In hindsight, I think they should extend the age when you can get tattoos. I got my firstthe second I turned 18 — one star on my lower back; I got four more up my spine. Stars are cool but they're nothing deeper;all my other tattoos have a reason to be there.
I have a sparrow on my rib cage; I like that birds can fly — they're free animals. I got itin my early 20s.Some alcohol was involved on that day so it probably didn't hurt that bad.
Then, when I moved to Connecticut for work, Iwas really missing home, so I got the New York City skyline tattooed on my right wrist. It has the Twin Towers in it.
My first culinary tattoo — a fork and knife — is inside of my right arm. I got it ona date with my ex-husband. Hewas a carpenter;he got a hammer. They're the tools of our trades.
The next two tattoos I got are my favorites. One isapineapple from my elbow to shoulder; it took 12 hours to do; three four-hour sessions.Pineapple is a symbol of hospitality, and it wears a crown, like a queen. And I run the ship here so I'm a queen.
It cost $1,200. Yes, it's expensive, but it's just like food: You get what you pay for. You can pay $20 for frozen small scallops or $36 for beautiful, fresh, plump, sweet scallops.
My most recent tattoo, on my left arm, is really delicate: it's of herbs — purple basil, oregano, sage, lavender. I'd like to buildon that but there are only so many herbs. It's so pretty.
People say, When you get old, it's going to look bad. I don't know. When I see someone old with a tattoo, I think, 'Man, that guy is a bad-ass.'"
Randolph native Jessica Phillipscooks super-creative gourmet tacos at her airy and rustic fast-casual restaurant. Try the lobster roll taco, the smoked brisket taco and the buttermilk fried chicken tacos.
"I have one big tattoo on my left arm — it took four sittings, six hours each.Everything is in black and gray, with just a pop of redhere and there. It cost $3,000.
There's a cardinal that represents my uncle, who passed away. My grandma saw a cardinal in the window and said he's watching over us. Everything else is kind of patterns and design. It all hurt. The cardinal is the most painful cause it's in the crease of my arm.
When you get a tattoo,you say I'll never do it again. And then you forget about the pain. And two weeks later, you're back at the tattoo parlor.
Chefs and tattoos go hand in hand — cause chefs are passionate about what they do. It's showing your passion.
My advice for anyone thinking of getting a tattoo:Think about it. It’s going to be painful to remove, and expensive."
Three years ago, Jersey-born Missy Addison andher wife, Kellene Addison,opened a super-friendly, old-fashionedluncheonette serving classic breakfast and lunch favorites including fluffy three-egg omelette, hefty buttermilk pancakes and thick PB&J's French toast. Get your photo taken for the "Customer Hall of Fame."
"There's a misconception that people who get tattoos are brave. I am terrified of needles. I get woozy when blood is drawn. I make the nurse hold my hand. I have to have gum,Bubblicious grape gum; it's my safety blanket.
What percent of my body is tattooed? Like 40 percent. My upper body is pretty much all tattooed.
I have the word New Jersey tattooed across my stomach. I'm a Jersey girl and I have lots of Jersey pride.
I have Goonies on my right bicep;Goonies never say die. On my leftI have a portrait of my dog; it is my favorite tattoo. On my forearm, I have a snake wrapped around a candle, burning on both ends — cause I feel I overextend myself a lot.
The tattoo on my butt says 'lucky'; it hurt a lot. Probably the tattoo that hurt the most is on my rib cage— a dagger that goes from my armpit to my hip.
Why do I have so many tattoos? I know I'm going to getold, I'mgoing to getsaggy and wrinkly, so Imight as well be colorful. My dad says, What are you going to look likewhen you're old? I say,'I will be more interesting to look at when I'm 80.'
My wife has tattoos, too. She's in real estate and she has a full sleeve on one side and couple of others. And most of my employees also are tattooed: When I interviewed my head chef, he wore a long sleeve shirt, not knowing if I'd be cool with it.He took off his shirt when I asked him to cook. Heis covered. It's cool.
Tattoos are just a form of expression. It's beautiful. It helps you express who you are. It's what makes me different.
Am I going to get more tattoos? Oh yes. Probably break my parents' hearts; even though I'm 37, it's difficult for them when I get a tattoo. They worry."
CIA-grad Ashley Cutler, 28, took over the kitchen of sprawling Morris Tap & Grill five months ago after working at Taphouse 15 in Jefferson and a slew of restaurants in New York City, including Tom Colicchio's Craft.While the spot is popular for its burgers and such, Cutler is working on changing the menu. Try her lobster gnocchi with grilled peaches.
"I have about 68 tattoos, my face included. On my face I have the word 'prolific' cause I think that best describes me; a small white tear drop for a friend who died of suicide;the letter J for my uncle who passed away;and the No. 13, which is my favorite number.
I had no hesitation to put tattoos on my face. My job security is great. As chefs, we fit in everywhere.The hospitality industry has suchdiversity; you areaccepted for whoyou are. We arehere to give people great food, great service. It's all positive.
I have never had to cover them up. They are so much a part of me, if I can't get something because of it, it's not for me.
My whole back is not tattooed; planning on saving it for something really big.
The reason for tattoos? Rebellion!It's to do things that my mom and grandma didn't want me to do. My grandma is super old school, but they're growing on her now. If she sees something new, she will give me a quick slap. She thinks I'm still five. Yet, the other day what came out of her mouth was, 'It looks cool.'
I got my first tattoo when I was 15. My mom did not approve. My daddy took me. He letme do everything I wanted to. Mom was very pissed. She didn't talk to us for almost a month. It's Japanese lettering that means equality. It might mean egg roll, though; who knows."
Martyna Krowicka, a Chopped championand a 2018 nominee for a New Jersey rising star award, has worked at some of the finest restaurants in New Jersey, including the Ryland Inn and Restaurant Latour. The skilled and talented pastry chef hails from Poland. Must try:Gianduja Budino.
"My sister got her first tattoo at age 16. So I got my first tattoo at age 16, too. Why? It's a form of expression. My tattoo is on my wrist: three hearts. I don't know why; I was 16.
I now have two full sleeves, one tattoo on my foot, one onmy thigh, one onthe left side of my back, one on my hip. The biggest one is on my thigh: it's a snake and a sword going through a heart. I have bees, tiger, tears, flowers, Doc Martenshoes, astrology signs, clouds.
I've always received compliments, though my mom cringes when she sees them. But she hasn't said anything.
I don't know what it is about having tattoos. I love them. Maybe some chefs use them to cover up burns. To me, they're beautiful."
A native of Virginia, 31-year-old Daniel Bruninabegan his culinary career at two-Michelin-starred Inn at Little Washington in Virginia and went on to work at famed Greenbrier in West Virginia and highly touted Little Nell in Aspen, CO, eventually working as chef de cuisineat landmark New Jersey restaurant Ryland Inn. He will helm the kitchen at Terrae Mare, a 120-seat restaurant being built on the edge of the Hudson River by the company behindThe Ryland Inn.
"My parents are conservative — my father is a police officer and mother a school teacher — so I didn't get my first tattoo until age 21.
Across my chest I have the words 'Push Yourself' — cause that's the motto I heard in two kitchens I worked for.
On my back I have a bull's head — my sister calls me the bull of the family — with tree branches going from the center of my back extending across the top of my back and my shoulders and elbows. It took ninehours start to finish. There were some beer breaks. And, yes, it hurt, though no tears were shed, fortunately."
In June, MikeCarrino closed his stunning restaurant and gastro loungePig & Prince Restaurant in Montclair. The CIA-grad was the creator ofrenowned French restaurant Passionne, also in Montclair. He is now poised to open Mike’s Pasta and Sandwich Shoppein Nutley.
"I'm notoriousfor falling asleep when I get tattoos. I find it relaxing. Sure, they hurtand anyone who tells you they don't is a liar.
They're fun. I don't take them too seriously. There are those who say, 'This means this, this means that,' I have no deep philosophical explanation for my tattoos. I see them as a road map to my life. Each one is a memory.
I got one recently of the Pig & Prince logo with angelwings. Pig & Prince made a huge impact on my life. The angel wings is because it's no longer here.
On my right arm I have all thischef-y stuff: vegetables, honeycomb, bees,giant artichoke, rooster. I asked a friend for a cartoon chef — and right on cue, I fell asleep. When I wokeup, I saw that the chef looks like me. My friendthought it was funny. He passed away. I cherishit now.
I hadthe first tattoo I ever got — a tribal art band on my arm — removed. It was the '90s and tattooed tribal art was popular. Removing hurts less than getting one.
As long as I have skin, I'll get tattoos. But never on my hands or my face. The reason? My mother. She scares me. I respect her a lot."
Francesco Palmieri is sometimes called "Orange Squirrel," because he is so identified with his critically acclaimed hometown restaurant, The Orange Squirrel, in Bloomfield. The CIA-trained chef today oversees the cooking at Calandra's Italian Village, making homemade pasta, gourmet pizza and other Italian dishes.
"I'm older— 49 — than the young bucks out there who go out and get all tattooed. I don't enjoy these young chefs coming out of school, get tattoos and think they can run a kitchen. I'm not a big fan of the hair bun and the Brooklyn beard either.I'vebeen there-done that.
I got my first tattoo at age 18with a hard-core guy at Shotsie's Tattoos, then in Paterson. The only people getting tattoos then were bikers and sailors.He did a scorpion on me, a beginner's tattoo I could hide from my parents. Then I got another: a woman's face on my ankle. And then when a buddy of mine bought a tattoo shop in Montclair, I got another woman tattooed on my calf.
Then you go through life, work, this and that. Then my wife and I were on vacation in Colorado and we saw cool birds: ravens, magpies. When we got back, I put a magpie on my neck. Now you're talking visibility. You make a choice, you take a stand.
When a friend opened a tattoo shop in Brooklyn,Idecided to do my arm. I got my yard tattooed on my arm:I'm known for my zucchini blossoms. I bring them to every restaurant I work in. I had them at the Orange Squirrel, the restaurant I had in Bloomfield for 10 years. The tattoo has vines and tendrils and even bugs, creatures of the garden.
I like art. I like being free. I like being open-minded.
Oh yeah, I'm going to get more tattoos."
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